Banaras is one of the rich weaving craft centres of India, famous for brocades, sarees and dress material. The unique and intricate silk brocades and sarees of Banaras have made it famous worldwide. Some of the different varieties of sarees produced here include Jangla, Tanchoi, Vaskat, Cutwork, Tissue and Butidar, which are made of silk warp and silk weft on plain/satin ground base and brocaded with extra weft patterns in different layouts. Buties, Bells, Creepers, Buttas in ground, border and anchal can be introduced to give a glamorous appearance.
With the changing times and consumer preference, the weavers of this cluster are also undertaking changes in the design and pattern of the product along with product diversification. In order to cater to the need of the oversees and domestic buyers, weavers are producing home furnishing, silk dhotis, stole, scarf, muffler, mats, dress material, wall hanging, and made ups like curtains, cushion covers, table covers, napkins, runners, etc.
Basic Characteristics of the Brocade and Saree:
The basic characteristics of the Banaras brocades and sarees distinguishes it from the other brocades produced in other clusters of the country, like Kanchipuram, Chanderi, Kalashetra, Mysore, Gujarat and Gadwal of Andhra Pradesh. The following are considered to be in main characteristics of the brocade fabrics of Banaras :
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Heavy gold work |
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Compact weaving. |
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Figures have small details. |
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Metallic visual effect. |
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Pallavs – a wide middle portion with decorative motifs all over, with one cross border on the top and another at the bottom. |
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Border, usually with a decorative Jhalar (inside edge). |
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Old Madanpura weaving (Madanpura is part of Banaras) has a delicate texture. Chatai (mat), khajuria (date leaf) weaving in the border, pallav, body and a kairee (kalgha) condia (a kalgha pallav placed in each corner of the rectangular layout of the pallav) are common. |
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Old Alaipura (Alaipura is a part of Banaras) weaving has a heavy texture, large designs, more karhwan and mina work. Small conias are sometimes used in the pallav. Kimkhabs especially for Nepal and Tibetan markets are woven. |
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